A GUWAHATI ITINERARY: MAA KAMAKHYA TEMPLE

 A GUWAHATI ITINERARY: MAA KAMAKHYA TEMPLE

 Travelogue by Lukhendro Keisham

View of Maa Kamakhya main temple

          The trip was to accompany a cousin from Lucknow to Guwahati and see off for Maram Bazar in Manipur. To make the most of it, we decided to spend a few days exploring Guwahati City as well. We boarded the Avadh Assam Express from Barabanki Junction Railway Station at 6:51 PM on December 14, 2024, and arrived at Guwahati Railway Station on December 16, 2024, at 1:00 AM. Upon arrival, we checked into a lodge in Paltan Bazar and settled until morning.

Nilachal foothill. Taxi parking

          To begin with we booked an interstate bus ticket for Guwahati to Maram Bazar. After a proper Manipuri lunch at Manipuri Basti we returned to our lodge for some more rest. It was a relief to see fellow Manipuris at Manipuri Basti, especially after a long and tiring train journey.

          Later, in the afternoon we set out for our cousin's pick-up point. My wife and cousin managed to squeeze in some last-minute shopping before her departure. Finally, we bid her farewell.

          To continue the day we took a cab towards Dispur and on return we strolled back on foot exploring the Guwahati - Shillong Road stretch. We checked a few shops and tasted some street food. Regarded as the most iconic and vibrant stretch of Guwahati in recent time, G.S Road has indeed transformed into an urban landmark. We bought dinner on our way back.

          Next day, the first thing we did was change our lodge to another one at Manipuri Basti. It brought us closer to all the best Manipuri food in town and a familiar neighborhood.

A lone pigeon among hundreds inside the temple compound.

          After lunch we hop onto a local bus for Nilachal Hill on Assam Trunk Road where the Maa Kamakhya Devi's temple resides. Privately owned sharing van services are easily available on the foothill at just Rs.30/- per person for the uphill and Rs.20/- for descent.

          As we walked up to the temple, we purchased an all-inclusive worship item (puja samagri), which is readily available at most surrounding shops. These shops also offer to watch over your shoes or other belongings if you buy the materials from them. Entry to the general queue is free, while the VIP section costs Rs. 501/-. Though the ticket counter opens at 5:00 AM, people start lining up as early as 2:00 AM to obtain passes, a stall owner mentioned. He also noted that visitor numbers peak during festivals, with Monday being considered the most auspicious day to visit the temple.

A lion status

          On reaching the temple yard we found that all passes for the day were sold out. Those who got the passes were already in the queues, locked in separate cells waiting for their turn. Seeing us enquiring, two separate individuals dressed exactly in holy attire approach us. Both offered us to grant access to the VIP queue on payment of Rs.1,000/- per person even though the queues were closed. We humbly refused the offer and instead, took a solitary tour of the entire temple campus.

          It was after we completed the tour that we later approached a local visiting the temple with his family. We explained our chances of missing out on prayer tickets. Without hesitation he informed that anyone could view the sanctum and offer prayer for free without any queues, the idol will be at an eyesight distance. He went on to explain that those in the queues are not allowed to get too close to the idol either. Going out of his way, he personally escorted us to a spot where we found two temple priests waiting to guide us, standing on the sanctum side and separated from us by a barricade. We couldn’t thank him enough, as we accomplished what we had come for.

          Coincidence was the day also marked the Adhibas of Goddess Kamakhya and Lord Shiva, a traditional pre-wedding ritual in Hinduism. The wedding was scheduled for the following day. Preparations were in full swing, with floral and fabric decor being set up for the annual celebration.

Bhubaneswari Temple main shrine.

          It was pitch dark as we left the temple grounds. Since we had arrived, we decided to walk up to the Bhubaneswari Temple, located just a few hundred meters from the Kamakhya Temple. We had to rely on our smartphone lights to guide our way. As we neared the Bhubaneswari Temple, we were treated to a stunning night view of the sprawling Guwahati city from a vantage point along the roadside. Upon reaching the temple, we found the campus eerily quiet, with no one in sight, not even the priest. Although the gates were open, the doors to the main shrine remained closed. We offered our prayers from outside before leaving the temple.

Bhubaneswari Temple main gate.

          After a short walk and on the left was the vantage point we had a view of the city. Just beside the view tower was a narrow downhill stairs in complete darkness where we came across a group of people, most likely tourists taking the route. To explore the unexpected, we made up our minds to take the plunge. We flashed our smartphones on the steps and began to descend. It led to a small neighborhood with narrow lanes, where vehicles cannot access the houses. This is the shortcut, a passerby lady informed us. She is also the one who explained to us about the Adhibas. As we passed through we could hear the sounds of percussion marking the start of the Adhibas.

          To end the day, we visited a Meitei family in Bakarapara. Rupak, who is like a younger brother to me, picked us up from Nilachal foothill after his office. The family introduced us to their 10-month-old baby boy and served us a simple yet unforgettable Manipuri dinner. Their warmth and kindness made us feel truly at home.

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