Christmas With A Twist ~ Lukhendro Keisham

CHRISTMAS AT MARAM

We drove more than 400 kms. including some of the bad hilly roads to celebrate Christmas for the first time and explore two of the iconic tribal villages here in Manipur. Though I studied in Catholic missionary boarding schools for many years I was never part of any Christmas. Of all it only falls during winter breaks and we at home including any of our friends and families don't observe.

Four of us met up at Khuyathong in Imphal on the morning of 24th Dec. Like most travelers in this part of the highway we had our well decorated traditional Meitei lunch at Pal Hotel along NH2 (earlier NH39) at Sekmai. Reached Maram at early noon, the place we plan to celebrate the birth of Christ and around 83 kms. from Imphal.

We unpacked our bags and in no time went out to visit few friends and relatives at Chowainamei Khullen. Here I tasted the indigenous home made rice bread called Totho Roti (in Mao dialect) for the first time. On our way back we gathered wild gooseberries found growing on a road side. The sun had already set as we reach Maram Market, bought some vegetables for the night. We could hear Christmas carols play through loud speakers from the Churches far and around. Visitors poured in the house and were served with home made rice beer.

Later that night we head out to join the celebration at a Baptist Church nearby. I sang a song with an acoustic guitar on the loudspeaker. Everyone was celebrating, wishing each other all around. It was the first Christmas of my life.

MONOLITH IN MANIPUR

We were at Willong Khullen's monoliths on 25th Dec. The place is 38 kms. from Maram Town and 115 kms. from Imphal City. The stone structures were inside a brick fenced compound adjacent to the highway. Except for a metal door we did not see any other entrance. The roads were empty and there was non nearby. From the high ground around a hundred meters into the village road we could see people gathering at the Willong Baptist Church for Christmas.

We were six of us from Maram. Walking among the rocks, touching them with our bare hands, clicking pictures, it was one we never thought would find ourselves in. So many thoughts pop up in our minds about the historic stones. One of our companion shared the myth of uncountable. Said that the stones were uncountable by any individual and the writing on the stones, still unknown. Also said that many tribes around has their ancestral foundation in Willong.

A must visit piece of history which will bind ourselves emotionally as a Manipuri. It was simply astonishing. We had our lunch among the stones, clean it up and drove off for our next destination.

Yangkhullen: House On The Wall

HOUSE ON THE WALL

After a short stay at Willong Khullen for the stone structures we hurried to Yangkhullen which could be seen at a distance resting on the slope of a mountain. Every time we unfold the bending highway filled with broken patches it utters a new surprise. We stop by to envy those less explored beauties as if we were the first to discover.

It was when we came across the bus stop and that steep stairway which lies opposite to the waiting shed we knew we reached Yangkhullen, as we were told. The stairway was the shortest route to the village while the bus stop is where the only public transport arrives once daily at 6:30 am. Except the couple whom we found assembling firewood near the stop there was non to be seen or hard at that time of the day.

After a kilometer or two from the bus stop there was an extreme u-turn on the right with a board written on it, "Road From Bendramai to Yangkhullen". It was the steepest, the narrowest and the final incline to Yangkhullen. The road than opens up to a flat cut out area. That's where we parked.

Greeted by an entrance made out of pilling rocks and wooden figures it leads to the sacred fortress of the village. It was Christmas Day and a wedding party was also underway. As we were crossing the rocky gate a local in English suits called on us. He inquired about the purpose of our visit. Told him that we had came for Christmas at Maram and made up to visit Yangkhullen too. He was calm and poised. Than he told us that the place is not open to outsiders or any visitors without prior permission from a concern authority. Unlike most tribal villages the Ze Mnui village or Yangkhullen is composed of both Christians and Non - Christians continued the man.

Stairway to Yangkhullen

As narrated the village has four gates and each gate serves specific purpose of its own. Various Dos and Don'ts were served for visitors including of their own. Unknown women are not permitted inside the fortress. It was than we called out for the village head, the Chairman of Yangkhullen Village. We greeted and requested for an apology for entering the place without proper permission. There is no offence for the unknown and since we already are inside we need not retreat feeling guilty, said the man of authority with a smile. He also added that if we wish to stay the night since it was soon getting dark we could use the community shed in the village. We saw the prohibitory order later near the rocky gate and various other restrictions at a board near the parking area.

Most special about Yangkhullen was not the breath taking surrounding nor the wind that blows cold on our face or the sacred fortress. It was those houses on that steep slope that lies below the fortress. I don't know what Yangkhullen or Ze Mnui means but it sure was "House On The Wall". An elderly pointed his finger to one of the highest peak on the eastern side and said the Dzuko Valley is just below that mountain and a little right is where the most scenic part of the valley lies where tourist flocks in for once in a lifetime view.

The cut out pass leading to Yangkhullen's parking area.

They prefer to be left alone and protected from rest of the world. The place, people, culture and tradition is one they most care about from the outsiders. This is Yangkhullen, a small village inhabited by Ze Mnui tribes and lies 133 kms. from Imphal or 56 kms. from Maram along the road leading to Peren in Nagaland from Manipur.

It was 2019.